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+---
+title: Apple MacBook Pro A1286 Battery Replacement
+layout: default
+language: en
+created: 2017-05-14 16:42:29 +0200
+updated: 2017-05-14 16:42:29 +0200
+toc: false
+tags:
+ - know-how
+ - hardware
+ - apple
+ - mac
+ - macbook
+ - battery
+ - replacement
+ - a1286
+ - a1321
+ - a1382
+---
+If you have a MacBook Pro A1286 (15.4", Late-2008 until Mid-2012) and want to replace the battery,
+you must be aware of the specific battery in your device. In 2001, for some reason, Apple decided
+to switch from the battery model A1321 (73 Wh) to model A1382 (77.5 Wh). While the form-factor
+stayed the same, Apple changed the connector and pinout.
+
+
+
+In the above picture, the A1321's connector is the top one with the A1382's at the bottom. Notice
+the small "+" and "-" marks on the plugs which indicate the changed polarity.
+
+If you search for the model numbers and the word "battery", you'll soon end up on
+[this page](https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/74372/Switch+battery+connector+on+the+battery+itself+%28A1321%29)
+or probably [this one](https://www.ghostlyhaks.com/forum/macbook/715-fun-facts-for-non-efi-related-apple-repairs).
+
+As you can read there, the pinout of one battery is:
+
+ [+12] [+12] [+12] [SCL] [DET] [SDA] [GND] [GND] [GND]
+
+while the other one is:
+
+ [GND] [GND] [GND] [SCL] [DET] [SDA] [+12] [+12] [+12]
+
+(`SCL` = SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL, `DET` = SYS_DETECT_L, `SDA` = SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SDA)
+
+Here is a photo of both batteries where I've marked the `+12V` lines (left: A1382, right: A1321):
+
+
+
+If you are comfortable with using a soldering iron and doing some delicate soldering, you can
+"easily" (sort of) swap the connectors and the 12V and GND wires. The 3 wires for the 12V supply
+and the 3 GND wires are shorted, so they're not going to different cells and it's not important
+whether you swap 1-2-3 with 7-8-9 or 9-8-7 or 7-9-8 or 8-7-9 or … (and vice versa).
+
+**I DON'T TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU'RE DOING TO YOUR HARDWARE. Just because it worked out
+fine for me, doesn't mean it will work for you.**
+
+
+When working with Li-Ion or Li-Polymer batteries, it's really important to **never** short the
+battery terminals ("+"/`12V` and "-"/`GND`) and to not physically damage the battery packs.
+Otherwise, the battery could get very hot and even explode, releasing dangerous gases in the
+process.
+([More info.](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/176527/hazards-of-puncturing-lithium-ion-batteries))
+
+
+
+Please take extra care to connect the 3 middle wires in the exact same order as they were in the
+other connector. They are for the identifier chip and if you mix them up, the MacBook won't
+recognise the battery.
+
+**ALSO DOUBLE- AND TRIPLE-CHECK EVERYTHING! TAKE YOUR TIME!** (The whole process took me almost 2
+hours.)
+
+
+Once you're done, it might look like this:
+
+
+
+Time to plug it into the MBP. Watch out for funny smells, smoke or the battery heating up. But if
+everything went fine, you should be able to turn on your MBP just fine.
+
+Once it finished booting up, head into the system information and check the battery info. For me,
+it looked like this:
+
+
+
+**SUCCESS!**
+
+
+Bonus Picture
+=============
+
+This is the controller PCB of the old A1321 battery:
+
+
+
+The three Microcontrollers (`U`-label, all on the left hand side) on there:
+
+* `U200`: TI *bq20Z45* Charging Controller
+* `U301`: CJG W --- TI *bq29410DCT* Secondary Over-Voltage Protection
+* `U302`: CBZ --- TI *TMP102* Low-Power Digital Temperature Sensor with SMBus
+
+
+*[TI]: Texas Instruments