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107 lines
3.9 KiB
Markdown
107 lines
3.9 KiB
Markdown
---
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title: Apple MacBook Pro A1286 Battery Replacement
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layout: default
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language: en
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created: 2017-05-14 16:42:29 +0200
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updated: 2017-05-14 16:42:29 +0200
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toc: false
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tags:
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- know-how
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- hardware
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- apple
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- mac
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- macbook
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- battery
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- replacement
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- a1286
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- a1321
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- a1382
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---
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If you have a MacBook Pro A1286 (15.4", Late-2008 until Mid-2012) and want to replace the battery,
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you must be aware of the specific battery in your device. In 2011, for some reason, Apple decided
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to switch from the battery model A1321 (73 Wh) to model A1382 (77.5 Wh). While the form-factor
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stayed the same, Apple changed the connector and pinout.
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In the above picture, the A1321's connector is the top one with the A1382's at the bottom. Notice
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the small "+" and "-" marks on the plugs which indicate the changed polarity.
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If you search for the model numbers and the word "battery", you'll soon end up on
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[this page](https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/74372/Switch+battery+connector+on+the+battery+itself+%28A1321%29)
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or probably [this one](https://www.ghostlyhaks.com/forum/macbook/715-fun-facts-for-non-efi-related-apple-repairs).
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As you can read there, the pinout of one battery is:
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[+12] [+12] [+12] [SCL] [DET] [SDA] [GND] [GND] [GND]
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while the other one is:
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[GND] [GND] [GND] [SCL] [DET] [SDA] [+12] [+12] [+12]
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(`SCL` = SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL, `DET` = SYS_DETECT_L, `SDA` = SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SDA)
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Here is a photo of both batteries where I've marked the `+12V` lines (left: A1382, right: A1321):
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If you are comfortable with using a soldering iron and doing some delicate soldering, you can
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"easily" (sort of) swap the connectors and the `12V` and `GND` wires. The 3 wires for the `12V`
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supply and the 3 `GND` wires are shorted, so they're not going to different cells and it's not
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important whether you swap 1-2-3 with 7-8-9 or 9-8-7 or 7-9-8 or 8-7-9 or … (and vice versa).
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**I DON'T TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU'RE DOING TO YOUR HARDWARE. Just because it worked out
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fine for me, doesn't mean it will work for you.**
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<p><div class="notewarning" markdown="1">
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When working with Li-Ion or Li-Polymer batteries, it's really important to **never** short the
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battery terminals ("+"/`12V` and "-"/`GND`) and to not physically damage the battery packs.
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Otherwise, the battery could get very hot and even explode, releasing dangerous gases in the
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process.
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([More info.](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/176527/hazards-of-puncturing-lithium-ion-batteries))
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</div></p>
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<p><div class="noteimportant" markdown="1">
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Please take extra care to connect the 3 middle wires in the exact same order as they were in the
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other connector. They are for the identifier chip and if you mix them up, the MacBook won't
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recognise the battery.
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**ALSO DOUBLE- AND TRIPLE-CHECK EVERYTHING! TAKE YOUR TIME!** (The whole process took me almost 2
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hours.)
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</div></p>
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Once you're done, it might look like this:
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Time to plug it into the MBP. Watch out for funny smells, smoke or the battery heating up. But if
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everything went fine, you should be able to turn on your MBP just fine.
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Once it finished booting up, head into the system information and check the battery info. For me,
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it looked like this:
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**SUCCESS!**
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Bonus Picture
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=============
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This is the controller PCB of the old A1321 battery:
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The three Microcontrollers (`U`-label, all on the left hand side) on there:
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* `U200`: TI *bq20Z45* Charging Controller
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* `U301`: CJG W --- TI *bq29410DCT* Secondary Over-Voltage Protection
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* `U302`: CBZ --- TI *TMP102* Low-Power Digital Temperature Sensor with SMBus
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*[MBP]: MacBook Pro
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*[PCB]: Printed Circuit Board
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*[SCL]: Signal Clock
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*[SDA]: Signal Data
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*[TI]: Texas Instruments
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